Tuesday was a slow wet morning, Roly and Bash were off on a cycling day (sometime around lunch I think) and the climbing team compared weather apps to try and hunt some dry rock.
Mallorca is an odd place for weather; due to the mountain range on the north west coast, many coves and inlets and its shape in prevailing wind, you can find a dry spot even on the stormiest of days.
We set off towards Tijuana, however en route I called a location change based on North vs South / cloud direction and took us to El calo de Betlem instead. This demonstrates a) how awesome our group is- that level of relaxed adaptation is suprisingly uncommon, and b) that I was driving
In the list of yeah vs nay El calo de Betlem had the following attributes:
- it was dry and sheltered – massive win
- the walk in, crag and local area are breathtakingly beautiful
- unless you’re a complete twit there is no risk of death on the walk in
- l got to go for a run
- There is a gorgeous 6c climb that is going on my to do one day’ wish list (Gemma and I managed the first 3 bolts)
The downsides are:
- Not Many routes and mostly very hard (not a biggy but it leaves you a bit battered)
- Some dreadful rusty bolts and lower offs – this was really the onIy thing that took the shine off the day. You really can’t push yourself on a hard route when you’re terrified of falling become you’ve just seen a crack in your bolt!
Some ominous cloud formations led to a swift exit (swift ish – Gemma found a random Belgian couple to chat to and the boys got their silly on). A fabulous chorizo stew dinner provided by Bash and Roly (who had had a lovely , steep, wet day with cake) and an early night.
Then some cats went mental
Then the storm hit
l did not sleep well
After 3 hours sleep I got up to make lunches, realised we didn’t have much bread, so made some bread… this indicates my ability to think sensibly when tired (there’s a shop round the corner) and I deteriorated throughout the day (forget phone in car, run in high temperatures to retrieve phone, make everyone eat lunch, forget to eat lunch.)
Fortunately l managed to have my stroppy arse day in the best of locations. If you’ve read this blog before you’ve heard me wax lyrical about Cala Magraner, it is an idyll of sun, sea and rock.
Whilst I had my temperamental (I’m not good enough, making people wait, spare wheel – all bollocks. Ok I’m struggling up climbs these guys are warning up on but I’m also owed a few patient belays – which they were happily offering) the guys were having a fab time. Roly and Kane did a bonkers sea traverse to climb an easy route and come back, Charlie nailed numerous 6a climbs (and hid from the sun), Gemma totally got her mojo on onsighting (up first time no advice) an overhanging 6a+, Roly led a short but briefly evil 6b.
And actually I also had a good list, got a run (bit stupid), lead a 5c – in fact led all my climbs (didn’t finish but started a number of 6’s) and only top roped the 6b Roly led. l also got to sleep on the beach, go for a paddle, take some pretty cool pics and spend my day with a group of friends who not only put up with my strop but called me a muppet and are still speaking to me today
certainly can’t complain